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Crisanti urged the government in Rome in August to expand its capacity for nasal swab tests in the hopes of keeping transmission low after a successful lockdown. While the government has, Crisanti is disappointed that it has relied heavily on rapid tests — as many other places have and as some experts have recommended — rather than strategically deploying more reliable nasal swabs to isolate outbreaks.

By October, Italy was battling a resurgence that has proved even deadlier than the spring peak, with the toll now at nearly 95,000. New clusters of a variant first found in Britain have led to localized lockdowns around the country, forcing the cancellation of one of the virus anniversary commemorations this weekend in Lombardy.

If the virus’ arrival last February caught the country off-guard, the long-predicted fall resurgence was “madness,” Crisanti said.

Vo, too, suffered a resurgence that is only now abating. The town’s pandemic death toll doubled, to 6.

Boasting an unusually high number of restaurants per capita at 45 eateries, Vo is now an echo of its former self. The weddings, baptisms and first communions that drew dwellers of nearby cities to the hillside town have been limited by restrictions. Restaurant closures also forced the Vo wine cooperative to reduce 2020 production. The local dance hall has never reopened.

Things might have been different, Martini believes.

“The virus in Vo arrived in Vo and died in Vo,” the mayor said of the first cases a year ago. The failure to repeat the model: “Ruinous,” he said.

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